Lovell-Hoare, S: Kashmir

PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 4, Natural history and conservation 4, History 9, Government and politics 16, Economy 17, People 17, Language 19, Religion 19, Education 22, Culture 22, Sport 25 Chapter 2 Practical Information 26 When to visit 26, Highlights 26, Suggested itineraries 28, Tour operators 30, Red tape 31, Embassies 32, Getting there and away 36, Health 41, Safety 49, Women travellers 50, Gay travellers 50, Travellers with disabilities 51, Travelling with children 51, What to take 52, Money 53, Budgeting 55, Getting around 55, Accommodation 60, Eating and drinking 62, Public holidays and festivals 64, Photography 65, Media and communications 69, Business 70, Buying property 71, Shopping 72, Arts and entertainment 72, Cultural etiquette 73, Travelling positively 73 PART TWO THE GUIDE 77 Chapter 3 Leh 79 History 79, Getting there and away 80, Getting around 82, Tourist information 84, Local tour operators 85, Where to stay 87, Where to eat and drink 90, Entertainment and nightlife 93, Shopping 93, Activities 95, Other practicalities 96, What to see 99, Around Leh 103 Chapter 4 Khardung La and the Nubra Valley 107 Around Kardung La 107, The Nubra Valley 109 Chapter 5 Southern Ladakh 121 Stok 121, Shey 126, Thiksey 128, Matho 130, Stakna 131, Hemis 132, Chemre 134, Thagthog 134, Markha Valley 136, Southern Lakes 138 Chapter 6 Leh to Mulbekh 145 Phyang 145, Nimmu 147, Basgo 148, Likir 149, Alchi 151, Uletokpo 155, Khaltsi 156, Dha-Hanu 158, Lamayuru 159, Mulbekh 161 Chapter 7 The Suru Valley and Zanskar 164 The Suru Valley 164, Zanskar 166 Chapter 8 From Kargil towards Srinagar 180 Kargil 180, Drass 187, Sonamarg 188 Chapter 9 Srinagar and Gulmarg 192 Srinagar 192, Gulmarg 208 Chapter 10 The Kashmir Valley 213 Pampore 213, Yusmarg 214, Avantipora 216, Shopian 216, Anantnag 217, Pahalgam 218, Verinag 222 Chapter 11 Jammu 225 Patnitop 225, Udhampur 227, Katra 228, Jammu 229 Appendix 1 Language 239 Appendix

Sophie and Max lived in India 2006-07 and have worked in both India and Pakistan, including in Gilgit-Baltistan. Sophie is a fluent Hindi and Urdu speaker and Max's photographs of the Karakoram mountain range and Highway have been widely published. They both drove the Karakoram Highway by auto-rickshaw in 2008 and their crossing of the Kunjerab Pass broke the world altitude record for journey by tuk-tuk. They have previously authored the Bradt Guides to Tajikistan, South Sudan and Uzbekistan.