The Cartiers
The Untold Story of the Family Behind the Jewelry Empire
(Sprache: Englisch)
“A dynamic group biography studded with design history and high-society dash . . . [This] elegantly wrought narrative bears the Cartier hallmark.”—The Economist
The “astounding” (André Leon Talley) story of the family behind the...
The “astounding” (André Leon Talley) story of the family behind the...
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“A dynamic group biography studded with design history and high-society dash . . . [This] elegantly wrought narrative bears the Cartier hallmark.”—The EconomistThe “astounding” (André Leon Talley) story of the family behind the Cartier empire and the three brothers who turned their grandfather’s humble Parisian jewelry store into a global luxury icon—as told by a great-granddaughter with exclusive access to long-lost family archives
“Ms. Cartier Brickell has done her grandfather proud.”—The Wall Street Journal
The Cartiers is the revealing tale of a jewelry dynasty—four generations, from revolutionary France to the 1970s. At its heart are the three Cartier brothers whose motto was “Never copy, only create” and who made their family firm internationally famous in the early days of the twentieth century, thanks to their unique and complementary talents: Louis, the visionary designer who created the first men’s wristwatch to help an aviator friend tell the time without taking his hands off the controls of his flying machine; Pierre, the master dealmaker who bought the New York headquarters on Fifth Avenue for a double-stranded natural pearl necklace; and Jacques, the globe-trotting gemstone expert whose travels to India gave Cartier access to the world’s best rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, inspiring the celebrated Tutti Frutti jewelry.
Francesca Cartier Brickell, whose great-grandfather was the youngest of the brothers, has traveled the world researching her family’s history, tracking down those connected with her ancestors and discovering long-lost pieces of the puzzle along the way. Now she reveals never-before-told dramas, romances, intrigues, betrayals, and more.
The Cartiers also offers a behind-the-scenes look at the firm’s most iconic jewelry—the notoriously cursed Hope Diamond, the Romanov emeralds, the classic panther pieces—and the long line of stars from the worlds of fashion, film, and royalty who
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wore them, from Indian maharajas and Russian grand duchesses to Wallis Simpson, Coco Chanel, and Elizabeth Taylor.
Published in the two-hundredth anniversary year of the birth of the dynasty’s founder, Louis-François Cartier, this book is a magnificent, definitive, epic social history shown through the deeply personal lens of one legendary family.
Published in the two-hundredth anniversary year of the birth of the dynasty’s founder, Louis-François Cartier, this book is a magnificent, definitive, epic social history shown through the deeply personal lens of one legendary family.
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Lese-Probe zu „The Cartiers “
2Louis (1898 1919)
A Spring Wedding
April 30, 1898. Springtime in Paris. Crowds were gathered outside the Church of the Madeleine, an imposing neoclassical building just to the northeast of the Élysée Palace, hoping to catch a glimpse of the sixteen-year-old bride as she arrived with her father. Inside, the Parisian fashion crowd were already at their pews. Eyeing one another s outfits and jostling for the best view of the aisle, they were eager to see what the granddaughter of the world s first celebrity designer would wear on the most important day of her life.
Up by the altar, the good-looking twenty-three-year-old groom was feeling uncomfortable. Under normal circumstances, Louis Cartier would have relished being the center of attention, especially surrounded by the crème de la crème of French society, but this was far from a normal day. Imploringly, he looked toward his father, who signaled encouragingly at the hundreds who had turned out to witness the union of two great families. Or rather, one great family, the Worths, and another family that still aspired to greatness. While the House of Worth was famous for revolutionizing Parisian fashion, the House of Cartier was still relatively unknown.
Just a few days earlier, Louis had gone to his father, Alfred, in desperation. He couldn t marry this girl, he had pleaded. She wasn t right. He understood that an alliance with her family would be good for their business, but what about his life? She would make him miserable. She wasn t like other girls: she was somber one minute, hysterical the next. His fourteen-year-old brother, Jacques, had spotted it too: I spent several afternoons alone with her and I was struck by her strangeness, her melancholy, and her sense of not being completely there.
Later Jacques would recall how, soon after meeting Andrée-Caroline, she had insisted he read several morbid books, something that had surprised him given her young age. While he was reading, she
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stayed silent for many hours and seemed completely absent of spirit. But occasionally she acted excessively gay for no apparent reason. He couldn t help but judge her to be ill of mind. And he knew what he was talking about. I have . . . witnessed the existence of nervous crises before. He was referring to his mother, Alice.
Louis had begged to call the wedding off. Alfred, who himself had entered into an arranged marriage over two decades earlier for the good of the family firm, would not hear of it. The two ended up having the almightiest row. Jacques, asked by Louis to be present, was shocked by the force of Alfred s reaction: I attended a scene where my father pushed him into marriage, seizing him by the arms and forcefully expressing his concern over the future of the family and the business. . . . Without this obligation in which he was trapped, I am sure that my brother would have broken off the engagement.
But there was no way out. With Louis standing by the altar, the congregation looked back toward the large church doors where the silhouette of Andrée-Caroline appeared next to her father, and with every step that his bride-to-be took toward him, past the exquisitely arranged spring flowers on the end of each pew, Louis tried to master his discomfort. As he lifted her veil, he half-flinched to see a familiar absent look in her eyes. She would go through the motions of the wedding with an unconscious air. Jacques, standing up by the altar alongside his brother, would later remember how Andrée-Caroline s lack of reverence/recollection shocked me . . . I believe her to be ill, a young girl . . . to whom the idea of consent cannot have any value.
If that was so, the newspapers were blissfully unaware. The Paris broadshee
Louis had begged to call the wedding off. Alfred, who himself had entered into an arranged marriage over two decades earlier for the good of the family firm, would not hear of it. The two ended up having the almightiest row. Jacques, asked by Louis to be present, was shocked by the force of Alfred s reaction: I attended a scene where my father pushed him into marriage, seizing him by the arms and forcefully expressing his concern over the future of the family and the business. . . . Without this obligation in which he was trapped, I am sure that my brother would have broken off the engagement.
But there was no way out. With Louis standing by the altar, the congregation looked back toward the large church doors where the silhouette of Andrée-Caroline appeared next to her father, and with every step that his bride-to-be took toward him, past the exquisitely arranged spring flowers on the end of each pew, Louis tried to master his discomfort. As he lifted her veil, he half-flinched to see a familiar absent look in her eyes. She would go through the motions of the wedding with an unconscious air. Jacques, standing up by the altar alongside his brother, would later remember how Andrée-Caroline s lack of reverence/recollection shocked me . . . I believe her to be ill, a young girl . . . to whom the idea of consent cannot have any value.
If that was so, the newspapers were blissfully unaware. The Paris broadshee
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Autoren-Porträt von Francesca Cartier Brickell
A graduate in English literature from Oxford University, Francesca Cartier Brickell is a direct descendant of the Cartier family. Her great-great-great grandfather founded Cartier in 1847. Her late grandfather, Jean-Jacques Cartier, was the last of the family to manage and own a branch of the world-famous jewelry firm. Leaving behind a career in finance to focus on independently researching her family history, Francesca has spent over a decade travelling the world in search of the real story behind the Cartiers. She is an accredited GIA jewelry professional and lectures internationally and online on Cartier's illustrious history. She lives with her husband and children in London and the South of France.
Bibliographische Angaben
- Autor: Francesca Cartier Brickell
- 2021, 656 Seiten, 109 Schwarz-Weiss-Abbildungen, Masse: 15,7 x 23,3 cm, Kartoniert (TB), Englisch
- Verlag: Ballantine Books
- ISBN-10: 0525621636
- ISBN-13: 9780525621638
- Erscheinungsdatum: 17.07.2021
Sprache:
Englisch
Pressezitat
A human story one even the unadorned will read with pleasure. The New York TimesExtraordinary. The Spectator
Dramatic. The Economist
Gripping. Hodinkee
Astounding. André Leon Talley
Mesmerising. Town & Country
Fascinating. Tatler
Glorious. The Mail on Sunday
Francesca Cartier Brickell s art of weaving the [personal and historical] together . . . show her mastery as a born storyteller with quite a tale to tell. Forbes
An incredible monograph. New York Journal of Books
The Cartier family had, for four generations, a ringside view of events that shaped the world as we know it. GQ
Artfully documented . . . The story of the Cartier family is the story of wealth creation in the 19th and 20th centuries as it moved in waves from country to country. Bloomberg
A must-read for any jewelry professional. JCK
An engrossing study of jewelry history and of high society at its flashiest, studded with entertaining anecdotes. Publishers Weekly (starred review)
An enthralling book because it is the work of a true historian, because it is a phenomenal story and because it is told from the inside, with as much heart and humor as intelligence. Michèle Bimbenet-Privat, Curator Objets d art, Musée du Louvre
Taking a fresh approach to the story of Cartier, Brickell . . . has created a history at once expansive and intimate. Beth Carver Wees, The Metropolitan Museum of Art
A fascinating read, engagingly written, with much new information. Martin Chapman, Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, author of Cartier and America
Masterly and compelling. Richard Edgcumbe, Victoria and Albert Museum
Deeply researched and highly energetic . . . The Cartiers shows how the family firm not only created a time and place in history,
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but how they also helped shape the modern world of luxury. Bill Dedman, bestselling author of Empty Mansions
A telling social history . . . While the diamonds, emeralds and sapphires are indeed stunning, it is the Cartier family characters who steal the show in this gem of a book. Sonia Purnell, New York Times bestselling author of A Woman of No Importance
Through long-lost letters, Cartier Brickell tells the intimate story of how her family s business conquered the world of luxury in the face of revolution, wars, and global depression. The Cartiers is an enchanting jewel of a book. Douglas Smith, author of Former People: The Final Days of the Russian Aristocracy
A telling social history . . . While the diamonds, emeralds and sapphires are indeed stunning, it is the Cartier family characters who steal the show in this gem of a book. Sonia Purnell, New York Times bestselling author of A Woman of No Importance
Through long-lost letters, Cartier Brickell tells the intimate story of how her family s business conquered the world of luxury in the face of revolution, wars, and global depression. The Cartiers is an enchanting jewel of a book. Douglas Smith, author of Former People: The Final Days of the Russian Aristocracy
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